Out of the Salon

Nicolas Lancret, Winter, 1738. Oil on canvas. Musée du Louvre.

 

I will be away for the holiday. I hope you all have a very lovely one, and stay warm if you are in a chilly area (like me and these poor ice-skaters).

L'hiver

Grévedon, Henri, 1776-1860., French. "L'Hiver"

Femme of the Week: Madame de Blot

Marie Cécile Pauline d'Ennerie (or Ennery) was a woman of standards. It was a main goal of hers to, well basically, be a sylph in every way possible. She was the niece of Madame de Mauconseil, a close friend of Richelieu's. Her aunt held a popular salon, its main attraction being the guest of honor- King Stanlislaw II of Poland (Louis XV's father in law).

Pauline loved animals, and as recorded in the Memoirs of the Countess de Genlis, she had once wished for a portrait of her canary on a ring she could wear. Well, she wished it out loud and in the presence of the Prince de Conti, who asked if she would accept one from him.

Of course she said yes! But she desired a simple ring. He wasted no time having the ring fashioned for her, and he affixed a flat cut diamond over the top of the portrait. When she found it was not glass but an exquisite stone, she returned it, tsk tsk prince, "upon which [he] caused the diamond to be ground into powder, and used it to dry the ink of the letter he wrote on the subject to Madame de Blot."

Pauline also kept a little puppy (very tiny spaniel), like all fashionable ladies did. She cared for it so much that when she was not home she would have her ladies read to it, usually comedies, so the little pup would not get bored! In Madame de Crequey's Memoirs, the pup had a rather tragic end, as the result of a very portly priest's bottom.

In 1745 she became a lady-in-waiting to the lovely Duchesse de Chartres. She spent all her time at the Palais Royale and and was all the rage at the Palais Royale, or at least she felt that way. Pauline lived her life aspiring to be a sylph and held several ‘beliefs’ of just how a lady should life. On 18 Nov. 1749 she married Gilbert de Chauvigni, Baron de Blot. In 1752 he gained the station of Captain of the guards of the duc d'Orleans.

She always dressed in a tasteful manner and was fascinated with etiquette and courtly manners. One of her favorite topics was the bon ton and all the gossip surrounding it. She developed an obsession with good tastes, class and propriety, and would carry out this obsession in excess. Many saw her as cold.

Upholding the idea that the female sex was "bound to be ethereal," she would make due eating the smallest amounts of food when in the company of others, especially men. She did not eat chicken due to a "masculine flavor" among other silly rules she dutifully followed.

“What! Drink wine like a vulgar person? Why my dear, the correct thing is to eat a section of an orange, with a little cake and half a dozen strawberries. Then one my drink a little milk with fresh water in it- the milk of sheep, of course, what the dear little lambs are fed on.”

Her delicate femininity attracted the Viscount de Schromberg, and for ten years he found himself infatuated with the woman. He remained with her often and was a close confidant. Ironically he was also a close confident with the count de Frize, who happened to be her lover.

In 1776 Madame de Blot's brother died, and with his widow, the two women commissioned a large and beautiful memorial for him. The sculpture shows the Widow of the comte d'Ennry weeping with child, and Madame de Blot, on the left is weeping inconsolably. She holds a damp handkerchief to her eyes and looks up toward heaven. It lends a warm and very human light on the woman described as "too fine."

Holiday Shopping: Timeless Fragrance

Any lady of fashion would be sure not to leave for a stroll along the promenade or for a visit to town or even to a friend's house without a small container chained to her person, holding her favorite fragrance.  If you are like me, you probably would love such a thing to at least throw in the purse (or clip to your bodice!)
 

Well here is yet another fabulous item to consider.  Inspired by these historical tiny perfume bottles, artist Douglas Little has created portable fragrance you will love wearing and carrying!  The container- silver pocket watches, which open to reveal your solid fragrance. <3

At just the right price (only $33) his Timeless Fragrance collection comes in three scents, all of which, meet my approval as far as 18th century fragrance goes:


Lily of the Valley
Jasmine Sambac
Tuberose Absolute

If you want something Antoinette would have loved, go with the Tuberose Absolute.

Unknowns: Vigee Le Brun

Attributed to Elisabeth Louise Vigee Le Brun, Young Woman.

Holiday Shopping: Hair Powder

Lucy at IndiePerfumes has just doomed me to spend more holiday money on myself!  Thanks a lot lady! What am I buying now??

Hair powder by Lulu Organics!  The tag line here is "a light powder for hair on days unwashed."  The products are all natural, and it is offered in 4 different scents.  These little containers have 4oz of light hair powder that you can just throw on in the morning, smooth in and go!  Now the recommended amount of powder is 'a dime size amount' so, of course do not get crazy with the bellows-unless that is the look you are going for!

But for my own use, they are excellent because they are also sold in travel size! So to have something I can throw in my purse and guarantee a far more clean look the day after my red-eye is ideal!  (you can get the travel size ones here)

The only problem is choosing the right scent.  Initially I would want anything that smells as nice as "Cyprian-a powdered wig scent" from the Scented Court Collection. Here are the choices:

Lavender and Clary Sage

Patchouli and Amber

Jasmine

Tuberose

If you are going for 18th century, I first suggest Tuberose and Lavender & Cary Sage.

Reading Material: The Devil in the Holy Water, or the Art of Slander from Louis XIV to Napoleon

When I received a tip in my mailbox about The Devil in the Holy Water, or the Art of Slander from Louis XIV to Napoleon I was beyond excited!  A book all about the art of slander? For our purposes, I could not think of a topic better suited!

Author Robert Darnton investigates the process of spreading slander during the 18th century, from harmless riddles to full libels, as well as the motives which led authors to do so, whether they be entertainment for friends or means of a quick fortune.

The book is written in four parts, each packed with fascinating material, mini biographies, police follies, and descriptive passages that open up an underground world.  Darnton uses vivid examples of the gossip in print at the time, however, you will find the process of actually producing those illegal texts and having them successfully circulate just as interesting.  It is a full and comprehensive study of a specific world within 18th century France, where libel was created, shared, sold, and hunted.

The duchesse de Bouillon was faced with a particularly incriminating libel called Les Petit Soupers et les nuits de l’Hôtel Bouillon. Filled with deliberate details of an intriguing and depraved private lifestyle, the libel paints the duchesse and her associates in the most unflattering light. Such libels were policed, but when money and bargains can be made, who could anyone really trust? Treachery abounds and the various sides of underground publishing are exposed Keyplayers are introduced, including their motives in the game.

Darnton’s objectives are history first, followed by devices used and effects of production. Who were the fathers of eighteenth century slander?  We are introduced to La Gazetier cuirassé, (a best-seller) the author of which stands behind the safety of "anonymous". Later authors would use anonymity for extortion of the noblesse. The libels were filled with amusing features such as puzzles, obscure codes for names and even lewd images of well known personages. The resulting publications were often very crude in language yet hours of entertainment for the audience.

As pointed out in the chapter Royal Depravity, there were many in the audience who believed fabrications they read. In the case of Antoinette, the results were far from favorable. Even when the topic was about the duchesse de Polignac and Colonel C___, the effect produced was a general feeling of disgust toward the Queen!

To express the unforgiving light these publications shed on Antoinette, Darnton quotes Essais Historiques Sur La Vie De Marie-Antoinette D'autriche, Reine De France : “Our [Antoi, lil Po and the comte d’Artois] three interlocked bodies composed the most rare and interesting combinations. Debilitated by our pleasures, exhausted with fatigue, we took time out only in order to mock the misery of the people…”

You may not want to sit down and read this one from cover to cover. I did not, and if you find you can, I suggest giving yourself a few days to let the information absorb.
Released December 2009, available at Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk

The Fashionable Male: Nicolas Châtelain

Johann Friedrich August Tischbein, Nicolas Châtelain.
1791, oil on canvas.  Neue Pinakothek.

Nicolas Châtelain was born of a French family in scenic Rotterdam on November 23, 1769.  He was an author who wrote, what some call imitation literature, imitating the styles of others.  This, he claimed, was merely literary exercise for his own pleasure, in hopes that others received pleasure from it as well.  His works, so well written and so convincing, had experts duped as to the true author!  Some of those he imitated were Voltaire and Madame de Sevigny.  They were all done without malicious intentions, and many found them entertaining.

He settled in Rolle, Switzerland during the Revolution, and entertained many who were escaping France.  Those in Rolle included some friends of the Duc de Noailles, and those close to Madame de Staël's then popular circle (she had  spent some time there).  He spent his time with friends and an ever changing circle of people traveling from town to town, but also reading and, of course, writing. He lived to 87, passing away at home on 27 September 1856.


Monsieur Châtelain casually leans against a stone wall for his full length portrait by Johann Friedrich August Tischbein.  He is twenty two years old with a keen interest in the fine arts.  He is wearing a high crowned and cocked hat in black, a frock coat with turned down collars and no cuffs.  The turned down collars expose his cravat, which ruffles just right under the chin.

His waistcoat is most likely silk, and to wear stripes was the height of fashion.  This one has green trim with burgundy touches. These details match the frock coat.  The pockets are also detailed in green.  Also very popular were laced shoes, which would later give way to the boot.  His breeches, although not skin tight, still cling close and go just to the knee; they are gathered with buttons over white stockings.  This shows off a well turned leg, a sight for ladies, dare I say, gentlemen as well?

Art du Jour! Queen Anna

Hans Maler, Anne of Bohemia and Hungary, Queen of Austria. 1520. The Netherlands, Private Collection.

Queen Anna was Marie Antoinette's 7th great grandmother on her father's side.  Can you spot any resemblance? I am loving the owl on her pendant and I would wear that garment this winter.

Industry and Idleness

Ah the industrious servant and the idle servant.  The story of William Goodchild and Jack Idle are told through a printed cotton handkerchief, made from an engraving (1775).  These types of handkerchiefs were made for various reasons, sometimes to celebrate a cause or event and in other cases like this, to educate.  This one teaches the viewer the importance of hard work.

The center of the handkercheif says "The Good and the Bad Servant at their Work" and shows just that.  I apologize for the sorry resolution.  The two sit at what appears to be a loom?  (Your guess is welcome.)  There is a letter posted on the wall behind them that says Good and Bad.

The good servant sits upright and works while the bad servant, possibly suffering an unwanted hangover is leaning on the loom, accomplishing nothing.

The bad servant is trying to cure his condition by drinking exactly what he drank the night before! Oh but what misfortune!  His ale has fallen to the ground and split due to his fuzzy state.  You can imagine the good servants dismay at his co-worker.  To make matters worse, it appears a thief is trying to steal something from this bad servant with a stick through the window!

Below the scene is a small bubble of moral thought for your Friday. It says:
Industry is the Handmaid of Fortune, But the Sluggard shall be doathed with Rags.

18th Century Inspired: Antoinette Collection

I love modern items that are historically inspired! The lovely Samalia has designed a collection inspired by Antoinette and 18th century French fashion.

I find each of her pieces takes an element from the period and with a modern eye, she created lovely garments that echo those details.  The designs are youthful and, well, just fun!  I could certainly see myself going to a soiree or two this spring in her dresses!

She is posting images of the garments on her blog: Samalia: Daily Confessions of a Fashion Designer.  Check out the collection as it goes up!

Welcome to the 18th Century Bad Girls Club

The Plot:
As cheesy as it sounds, there is a show called The Bad Girls Club the premise is:

selected girls are sent to a mansion where they live together, drink champagne go out to operas masquerades and possibly a brothel or two!

The Cast:

The 18th Century Bad Girls Club and it is your casting call.  Which ladies would you most like to see in the mansion?   Who would survive I wonder?

*POLL* -->
Choose the girls you would most like to see *live together* on the 18th Century Bad Girls Club on the poll to the right and the poll on Heathers page.  (same spot)

Marie Anne Pierrette 

aka Madame Lavoisier

This bad girl was always considered a bit bold in the public eye.  Far too often was she perceived as acting "too male!" *shock/scandal!* *Tomboy*

~~~

Marie Charlotte Louise Perrette Aglaé 

aka Comtesse de la Châtre

Every house needs your lady of loose morals. Charlotte did not let fidelity spoil her fun nor did she mind having men in her private quarters for 'conversation' *Playgirl*

~~~

Françoise-Marie de Bourbon 

aka Madame Lucifer

Born of a king, knew a thing or two about self-importance, and had no qualms about being in a public family feud.  When challenged she had a temper that, to some, rivaled that of the devil himself. *Betch*
~~~

Jeanne de Saint-Remy de Valois 

aka Jeanne de la Motte

Skilled in the art of manipulation, trickery and being discreetly conniving for her own means are ways we can begin to describe this bright *Felon.*
~~~

Catherine Noele Grand de Talleyrand-Périgord 

aka Madame Grand

Catherine doesn't need men in her life, just their money. Sure she will date them, have them buy her lavish items, give her ample allowances- but they dare not live with her. In fact it is better they stay in a different country all together! *Gold-digger*
~~~

Jeanette Becu/Vaubernier

aka Madame du Barry

It is best for men to avoid eye contact with this blond beauty. 'nuff said.  *Man-eater*